Pinot Noir in Northern Michigan: Why the heartbreak grape is worth the trouble

Did you know that nearly half of the grapes we grow are Pinot Noir? That is a lot of vineyard space for a grape with a reputation for breaking hearts.

Its tight clusters and thin, delicate skins make Pinot Noir one of the more demanding grapes in our vineyard. Northern Michigan's wet and humid weather only adds to the challenge. Pinot Noir demands close attention in the vineyard, but for a winery devoted to sparkling wine, the payoff is worth the extra work.

Pinot Noir is one of the principal grapes used in Champagne and plays an important role in sparkling wines around the world. At MAWBY, most of it goes into our sparkling wines, where it brings structure, depth and fresh fruit character. A small portion takes a different path at bigLITTLE, becoming Treehouse, our white Pinot Noir. One famously difficult grape gives us two distinct expressions and plenty of reasons to keep growing it.

What is Pinot Noir?

Pinot Noir is an ancient red wine grape closely associated with Burgundy, France, where growers have cultivated it for centuries. Its exact origin remains difficult to pin down, though Burgundy has long been considered its historic and spiritual home.

The name Pinot Noir comes from the French words for “pine” and “black.” Look at a cluster hanging on the vine and the reason becomes clear. The dark berries grow together in a shape that resembles a small pine cone.

As a red wine, Pinot Noir is generally dry and light to medium-bodied. Its thin skins produce less color and tannin than thicker-skinned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, while its natural acidity helps it stay fresh in cooler growing regions.

That freshness is one reason it works so well in Northern Michigan and another reason winemakers value it for sparkling wine, however the grapes thin skin makes it notoriously difficult to grow.

Why is Pinot Noir so difficult to grow?

Pinot Noir’s trouble starts with its physical build.

“Pinot Noir is a famously tight-clustered and thin-skinned grape,” says MAWBY Vineyard Manager Mike Formisano. “This combination makes it difficult to grow because the skins break easily from the pressure of the surrounding grapes, and when the skin breaks, rot can set in.”

Michigan State University identifies tight-clustered varieties such as Pinot Noir as particularly susceptible to Botrytis bunch rot. Long periods of moisture and high humidity can also encourage other forms of cluster rot.

Our vineyard crew manages that risk throughout the growing season. Leaves are removed by hand from around the fruit, allowing more sunlight and airflow to reach the clusters. This helps the grapes dry more quickly and gives the skins a better chance of remaining healthy as harvest approaches.

Pinot Noir has earned its “heartbreak grape” nickname honestly. One rainy stretch can make everyone pay much closer attention to the forecast.

Why grow Pinot Noir in Northern Michigan?

Pinot Noir may make us work for it, but it also feels right at home here. The payoff begins with our cool climate.

Pinot Noir develops gradually in regions where the growing season is long without becoming excessively hot. Cooler conditions help the grapes retain acidity while their flavors ripen. Warmer regions can produce fuller, riper styles, while cool-climate Pinot Noir often leans toward lively red fruit, floral notes and a lighter frame.

Our well-drained sandy soils also suit the grape. Water moves through them quickly, which is especially useful during a humid Northern Michigan summer.

According to Mike, the combination gives our Pinot Noir “bright acidity and complex flavor that wouldn’t be possible in a region with warmer nights and richer soil.”

That acidity is especially important for our winemaking program because it provides a strong foundation for sparkling wine, which needs enough energy to remain lively through fermentation and aging.

Its pale juice, dark skins and bright acidity also give winemakers several ways to work with Pinot Noir once it reaches the cellar.

How can Pinot Noir make red, rosé, white and sparkling wine?

Cut open a Pinot Noir berry and the juice inside is pale. Nearly all of the grape’s red color comes from its skins. The amount of skin contact determines whether the finished wine is red, rosé or white, while additional fermentation and blending choices can take Pinot Noir in still or sparkling directions.

Red Pinot Noir

To produce red wine, the grapes are crushed and fermented on their skins. Pigment, flavor and tannin move from the skins into the juice during fermentation and maceration.

Pinot Noir’s thin skins give the finished wine its characteristically lighter color and softer tannins. The exact shade can range from translucent ruby to a deeper garnet depending on the vineyard, vintage and winemaking choices.

Pinot Noir Rosé

Rosé receives a shorter period of skin contact. The juice may remain with the skins for a matter of hours before being pressed, extracting some color and flavor without the deeper color and tannin of a red wine.

The finished style is often fresh and fruit-forward, with flavors such as strawberry, cherry, watermelon or citrus.

Pinot Noir Blanc aka White Pinot Noir

Not to be confused with Pinot Blanc (more on that later), Pinot Noir Blanc begins with dark grapes, though the juice is separated from the skins during pressing. Without extended skin contact, very little pigment enters the wine.

The finished color can range from pale gold to a light peach or blush. It drinks like a white wine, with bright acidity and a fresh flavor profile, while still carrying some of Pinot Noir’s weight and texture.

Treehouse from bigLITTLE is our white Pinot Noir. It gives the grape a different point of view, which feels fitting for a wine named after climbing up and seeing the world from a new angle.

Sparkling wine made with Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is also one of the principal grapes used in traditional-method sparkling wine. It can add structure, body and red-fruit character to a blend, along with the ability to develop greater complexity during extended aging.

The production method depends on the desired color. A sparkling rosé may receive skin contact or include a small amount of red wine. A white sparkling wine made from dark-skinned grapes may be described as a *blanc de noirs*, meaning “white from black.”

At MAWBY and bigLITTLE, Pinot Noir appears in several sparkling blends. Talismøn combines it with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Vignoles, along with reserve wines dating back to 1993. C-3 Pinot brings together three members of the Pinot family: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Are Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc related?

Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc developed as natural color mutations of Pinot Noir. Research suggests the two mutations arose independently from the ancestral dark-skinned grape. Their skin colors changed while much of their underlying genetic identity remained closely connected.

Pinot is unusually prone to mutation, which has produced a large collection of recognized clones. Each clone may grow a little differently or contribute its own balance of aroma, structure, ripening time and disease resistance.

This diversity gives vineyard managers and winemakers more tools to work with. It also helps explain why Pinot Noir can taste so different from one vineyard to the next.

What does Pinot Noir taste like?

Pinot Noir commonly shows red-fruit flavors such as cherry, raspberry, strawberry and cranberry. Cooler-climate versions may also carry floral notes, tea, herbs, earth or mushroom.

Oak aging can add vanilla, smoke or baking spice. As the wine develops in the bottle, its fresh fruit may become more savory, with notes resembling dried leaves, leather or forest floor.

The grape’s natural acidity keeps those flavors feeling fresh. Its tannins are usually gentle, giving red Pinot Noir a smooth texture that can appeal to people who find bigger red wines too heavy.

White and sparkling versions show another side of the grape. Their flavors depend heavily on pressing, fermentation, blending and aging, though the same freshness and structure remain useful to the winemaker.

What food goes with Pinot Noir?

Pinot Noir is a reliable choice when several different dishes are sharing the table. Its acidity works with richer foods, while its lighter body leaves room for more delicate ingredients.

Red Pinot Noir pairs well with roast chicken, pork, duck, salmon and other fuller-flavored fish. Mushrooms, thyme and roasted vegetables bring out its earthy side. A slight chill also makes it a good red wine for warmer weather.

Serve red Pinot Noir around 55 to 60°F. That is cooler than most rooms and warmer than the refrigerator. A brief chill helps preserve its freshness and keeps the fruit and alcohol in balance.

White and sparkling Pinot Noir pair easily with fish, creamy cheeses, poultry, salty snacks and fried foods. Bubbles have never met a potato chip they could not befriend.

Frequently asked questions about Pinot Noir

Is Pinot Noir a red or white wine?

Pinot Noir is a dark-skinned grape most commonly made into red wine. It can also produce rosé, white wine and sparkling wine. The color depends largely on how long the juice remains in contact with the grape skins.

Why is Pinot Noir called the heartbreak grape?

Its thin skins and tight clusters make it vulnerable to splitting, rot, pests and changing weather. Producing healthy, evenly ripened fruit requires close attention throughout the growing season.

Does Pinot Noir grow well in Michigan?

Pinot Noir can produce expressive wines in Northern Michigan’s cool climate and well-drained soils. Humidity and rainfall create disease pressure, so careful canopy management and vineyard work are essential.

Is Pinot Noir used in sparkling wine?

Yes. Pinot Noir is widely used in traditional method sparkling wine and can provide structure, body and red-fruit character. It may be used for white sparkling wine, rosé or as one part of a larger blend.

What is white Pinot Noir?

White Pinot Noir is made by pressing dark Pinot Noir grapes and separating the juice from the skins before significant color is extracted. The finished wine may be pale gold, peach or lightly blushed.

A grape worth the extra work

Pinot Noir keeps our vineyard crew busy. Its clusters need airflow, its skins need protection and its progress changes with every stretch of weather.

We continue growing so much of it because it gives us plenty to work with. It can become red, pink, white or sparkling. It holds onto the bright acidity that defines many Northern Michigan wines. Each vintage also carries a clear record of where it grew and what happened during the season.

The heartbreak grape can be demanding. Around here, it has also made itself pretty hard to resist.

Explore our current wines online or ask our tasting room team which bottles feature Pinot Noir. You may need to taste a few versions for research purposes. We support this decision.